As soon as we were riding on the Shimanami Kaido cycling route in Japan, I noticed spontaneous smiles on the faces of people cycling! Often in Japan people are reserved and shy, but on the Shimanami Kaido there were wide grins growing ear to ear. Cycling in such a beautiful landscape brings out such joy in people!

The Shimanami Kaido cycling route connects six islands together with a series of bridges linking the main islands of Honshu and Shikoku across the Seto Inland Sea. The idea emerged over twenty years ago to use cycling as a regional sustainable economic development strategy. While an expressway was being built linking the main islands, walking and cycling infrastructure was also provided on the bridges. The routes on the smaller islands mostly use existing roads, many of them oceanside, and are marked using blue lines on the pavement so it is relatively easy to follow.

When my wife Mai asked me to join her this winter for a visit with her family in Japan, the prospect of riding the Shimanami Kaido together was a main attraction. It has been ranked as one of the top cycling routes in the world. It’s about 70km long, but there are many variations and connecting routes. You could spend lots of time exploring. We started from Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. We took the Shinkansen down from Osaka, spent the night on the shore of the Seto Inland Sea in Onomichi Harbor and got rolling the next day on our rental bikes. Rental bikes are widely available on the route.

The first leg of the trip from Onomichi is aboard a ferry. They come every few minutes and the trip is just a few minutes more, making it quick and easy. Just roll your bike onboard. The ferry lands on Mukaishima Island. Then we were off pedaling to explore!

There are a lot of rest stations and food stops. And always amazing views of the bridges, islands and sea. We bought delicious mikans–a locally grown citrus similar to mandarin oranges–from a farmer at a roadside stand. Being on the water was especially sensational for me because I come from an intermountain region with a lot of desert. So much horizon with ocean meeting the sky was really incredible to see.

We spent the night on Ohmishima Island, a little over halfway across the Shimanami Kaido, at the Wakka hotel. We soaked in a natural hot spring at the town’s recreation center, which was a short walk from our hotel. Our room had views onto the sea looking towards Tatara bridge, which is most beautiful, and where Hiroshima and Ehime Prefectures meet. The bridge cables drape down from the towers like harp strings. The full moon lit up the night sky.

Everything was configured for cyclists! There’s luggage service between starting and stopping points, so you don’t have to carry your baggage with you! There are bike taxis in case you get stranded, or just want to ride certain segments of the journey. Our room at the Wakka had places to hang our bikes, and was attuned to the natural environment, so your connection to nature stays solid even when you’re not riding. The long, low window next to the bed was aligned for viewing outside while you reclined. At night we watched the moon rise over the mountains behind us. In the morning we watched the sunrise and ate breakfast from our room’s front deck.

Cycling tourism has a synergistic positive impact! From human health, to nature conservation, and preserving local traditions by cultivating appreciation for what is here today. Ehime Prefecture’s government gets this. They have a cycling division and the tourism ministry has a cycling lifestyle promotion division. The government’s interest in cycling promotions and infrastructure has spawned collaborations with businesses, various public agencies, and everyday local citizens, who appreciate the economic diversification and preservation of culture and natural resources they cherish. A seawall art project on Ohshima island reflects the welcoming, friendly attitude of local residents. Cycling is a way of joining a community, since it puts you directly in touch with the local landscape, food and people, and everyone in Japan rides bikes anyway.

Cycling the Shimanami Kaido shifted my focus on addressing present challenges, such as climate change. Who says it has to be all sacrifice? Why can’t our challenges bring out creativity and deliver the benefits of enjoying nature, including our own natural mobility powers, while also conserving nature and fostering health? The growth of joy and connections cycling creates are simply wonderful. For me, I feel like my journey has just started. I learned of the Tobishima Kaido, another island hopping cycling route in Hiroshima, that sounds fun. Cycling development–It’s such a simple yet highly effective tool for generating health, human happiness and sustainable economic development.

References
A First Timers Guide to the Shimanami Kaido
https://shimanami-cycle.or.jp/cycling/en-02.html

CycloTourisme Shimanami
A nonprofit with a mission of ‘sustained community improvement’ through the provision of services on the Shimanami Kaido, including custom maps and documenting the chronological steps of sustainable tourism and cycling development
https://www.cyclo-shimanami.com/english-info/

Wakka hotel on Ohmishima Island
Provides lodging and support services to cyclists and all travelers on the Shimanami Kaido. https://wakka.site

Make Ehime Prefecture A Cycling Paradise
https://www.clair.or.jp/e/bestpractice/docs/2019Ehime_e_full.pdf

How Finland promotes local cycling, even during winter, especially during winter
https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20231220-why-oulu-finland-is-the-winter-cycling-capital-of-the-world

How cycling promotes an economic paradigm shift, while fostering enjoyment of nature
https://bicyclensw.org.au/ehime-one-of-the-7-cycling-wonders/

Cycling opens up experiences of places for people as a way in to cultural landscapes
https://www.redbull.com/gb-en/theredbulletin/ehime-japan-bike-guide